Intermediate

Electric Roller Shutters: Complete Installation Guide

22/04/2026 14 min read

Electric roller shutters have become the default window covering in new-build construction: thermal comfort, light control, security against break-ins and added resale value. But between the three installation types (tunnel, monobloc, surface-mounted), wired or radio motors, the 230 V supply to plan and home automation integration, a self-builder can quickly lose their bearings. This guide gives you the complete method for choosing, sizing and fitting your motorised roller shutters without calling in an electrician — in compliance with NF C 15-100 (French electrical code) and manufacturers’ technical sheets.

Anatomy of an electric roller shutter

A motorised roller shutter comes down to six components that must be sized together. If any one of them is undersized, the whole system struggles.

1. The headbox

The casing that houses the winding barrel and the rolled-up curtain. Three variants depending on the installation type (see below): tunnel headbox built into the wall, monobloc integrated with the window frame, or surface-mounted retrofit. Common heights: 165, 180, 205 or 240 mm depending on the curtain area to wind up.

2. The barrel (winding tube)

Galvanised steel tube 40 to 70 mm in diameter onto which the curtain winds. The tubular motor is inserted directly into this barrel. Barrel length = curtain width minus approximately 5 cm.

3. The tubular motor

The heart of the system. A single-phase 230 V motor housed inside the barrel, featuring:

a torque rating expressed in Newton-metres (Nm) — from 6 Nm for small shutters up to 50 Nm for large openings
mechanical or electronic limit switches that memorise the up and down positions
an integrated thermal circuit breaker that cuts out under overload

4. The slat curtain

The set of articulated slats that descend. Three common materials:

Injected aluminium (standard): hollow slats filled with polyurethane foam, 8 to 9 mm thick, reasonable insulation (R ≈ 0.20 m².K/W) and anti-burglar rated
PVC: cheaper, solid slats 8 mm thick, susceptible to impact and frost — reserved for small areas and sheltered exposures
Thick extruded aluminium slats (14 mm): premium range, enhanced anti-burglar rating, RC2 class

5. The side guide rails

U-section aluminium profiles fixed to the window reveal. They guide the curtain vertically and prevent it from rattling in the wind. Height = opening height, with integrated brush seals to reduce friction and noise.

6. The control system

Three families:

Wired wall switch (rocker switch): a simple flush-mounted box with two up/down buttons
Radio receiver built into the motor, controlled by remote or a wireless battery-powered wall pad
Connected (Somfy RTS, io-homecontrol, Zigbee, KNX): control from smartphone, scenes and automations

The three installation types

This is decision number one when you get started. The installation type depends on the state of the building and the stage at which you intervene.

Tunnel installation (new build — plan at shell stage)

The headbox is built into a rough opening left above the window reveal when the walls are erected. This is the most elegant solution: no visible box either inside or outside, and external insulation can continue uninterrupted.

Rough opening height: 25 to 30 cm depending on shutter height
Must be ordered: before the lintel is cast, in agreement with the bricklayer
Advantage: zero thermal bridge, motor access via interior hatch
Disadvantage: impossible to retrofit after the fact

Monobloc installation (integrated frame)

The headbox is delivered attached to the window frame. The whole unit is fitted as a single block into the masonry. Widely used in new masonry builds and major renovation work.

Lost height: 15 to 20 cm less clear glazing
Advantage: fast kit installation, air and water tightness factory-guaranteed
Disadvantage: box visible on the interior side, unless concealed with a plasterboard return

Surface-mounted installation (retrofit)

The headbox is fitted externally, fixed to the masonry above the existing window. Preferred solution when renovating with the existing joinery kept in place.

Advantage: no structural work, installation in 1 day per window
Disadvantage: box visible on the facade, less refined appearance
Variant: interior surface mounting (box on the room side) — even faster but visually bulky

Tip — If yours is a new build, always specify tunnel or monobloc installation. The price difference versus surface-mounted is marginal (EUR 50–80 per opening) and you gain in thermal performance, aesthetics and resale value. Surface mounting is something you end up with, not something you choose.

Choosing your motor drive

Once the headbox type is decided, you need to choose between wired and radio. The right choice depends on how far along the build is and your home automation requirements.

Question

Wired motor (with wall switch)

Each shutter is controlled by a 2-button rocker switch (up / down) cabled in-wall next to the window. A proven, robust and inexpensive solution.

Wiring: a 3-core 1.5 mm² cable (live / neutral / earth) from the consumer unit to the headbox + a 4-core 1.5 mm² cable between the switch and the motor
Advantage: no battery, zero latency, compliant with NF C 15-100 (French electrical code) / BS 7671 (UK Wiring Regulations) without monitoring
Disadvantage: cannot centralise without adding a radio module; one switch per shutter

Radio motor (RTS, io-homecontrol, Zigbee)

The motor integrates a radio receiver. No need to run a cable to a switch: control is via remote or a battery-powered wall pad (stuck to the wall).

Wiring: only the 3-core 1.5 mm² 230 V supply cable in the headbox is needed
Advantage: native centralisation (one button to close the whole house), easy home automation, freely repositionable remotes
Disadvantage: surcharge of EUR 30–80 per motor, dependence on receiver power (battery for wall pads)

Comparison table

Criterion	Wired	Radio (RTS / io)
Motor price alone	EUR 80–130	EUR 130–220
Cables to run	2 cables per shutter	1 only (230 V supply)
Centralisation	Requires separate module	Native
Latency	Instant	< 1 s
Battery to replace	No	Yes (remotes/wall pads)
Best for	Small projects, tight budget	New build, smart home

Good practice — In a new build, always plan a 3-core 1.5 mm² cable in every headbox (even if you are going radio today). You can always switch to wired later or add a backup switch if the radio fails. The reverse — adding a cable into a plastered-over headbox — is simply not feasible.

Decision tree: which solution to choose?

flowchart TD A{New build
or renovation?} -->|New masonry build| B{Smart home planned?} A -->|Major renovation| C[Monobloc integrated frame
radio io-homecontrol] A -->|Light renovation| D[Surface-mounted
radio Somfy RTS] B -->|Yes connected home| E[Tunnel + radio
io-homecontrol or KNX] B -->|No basic setup| F[Tunnel + wired
wall switch] style A fill:#0F4C81,stroke:#0F4C81,color:#fff style B fill:#0F4C81,stroke:#0F4C81,color:#fff style C fill:#56C6A9,stroke:#56C6A9,color:#fff style D fill:#6B5876,stroke:#6B5876,color:#fff style E fill:#F58220,stroke:#F58220,color:#fff style F fill:#56C6A9,stroke:#56C6A9,color:#fff

Sizing: what motor torque do you need?

Motor torque depends on the curtain area and its weight. Undersizing burns out the motor within a few cycles. Oversizing means paying more for nothing.

Curtain area	Aluminium curtain weight	Recommended motor torque
< 2 m²	< 9 kg	6 Nm (barrel Ø 40)
2 to 4 m²	9 to 18 kg	10 Nm (barrel Ø 60)
4 to 6 m²	18 to 27 kg	20 Nm (barrel Ø 60)
6 to 8 m²	27 to 36 kg	30 Nm (barrel Ø 60–70)
8 to 12 m²	36 to 54 kg	40 to 50 Nm (barrel Ø 70)

Beyond 12 m², move to heavy-duty motors (up to 120 Nm) or split the opening into two independent curtains.

Warning — A PVC curtain may appear lighter than aluminium, but PVC deforms and creates more friction in the side guide rails. Add +1 Nm margin on top of the theoretical calculation for a PVC curtain. Otherwise the motor strains on the way down and burns out the limit switch within 6 months.

Step-by-step installation (surface-mounted shutter)

Here is the method for the most common self-build scenario: a surface-mounted exterior roller shutter on an existing window. The method transfers to monobloc shutters (which are pre-assembled at the factory).

1. Taking measurements

Width: measure across the external reveal at top, middle and bottom — take the smallest dimension
Height: from finished floor level to above the lintel, leaving 5 cm clearance for the box
Depth: render thickness + 1 cm clearance under the box
Winding direction: motor on right or left depending on the 230 V supply entry point

2. Preparing the 230 V supply

Run a 3-core 1.5 mm² cable (live / neutral / earth) from the consumer unit to the future headbox position
Cable exit inside the box, 5 cm from the motor end
Protection at the consumer unit: dedicated 10 A MCB under a 30 mA RCD (roller shutter circuit)
Wired option? Also run a 4-core 1.5 mm² cable (3 switched phases + earth) between the box and the wall switch back-box

3. Bench pre-assembly

Insert the tubular motor into the barrel on the correct side
Screw on the barrel end caps (idle bracket + motor-side rotation ring)
Fix the curtain to the barrel using rigid clips (flexible ones break within 2 years)
Thread the slats one by one into the head rail profile
Slide the guide rails into the box channels without fixing them yet

4. Fixing the surface-mounted box

Mark the vertical axis with a chalk line, check level over 1.2 m
Pre-drill the masonry (Ø 10 mm masonry bit) every 50 cm
Fix the box with Ø 8 mm frame fixings or chemical anchors for hollow blockwork
Apply a bead of polyurethane mastic around the perimeter on the facade side — water must never pass between box and wall

5. Fitting the guide rails

Slide the curtain into the guide rails, lowering it slat by slat
Screw the guide rails into the bare reveal (not into the render) using stainless M5×60 mm screws every 40 cm
Continuous mastic seal between the guide rail and the masonry on the exterior side
Check that the curtain descends freely (without friction) over its full travel

6. Wiring and adjustment

Isolate at the consumer unit before making any connections
Wire the motor:
- Wired: brown = direction 1 (up), black = direction 2 (down), blue = neutral, green/yellow = earth
- Radio: brown = live, blue = neutral, green/yellow = earth only
Switch on, run a complete cycle test
Set the limit switches:
- Mechanical: turn the two screws on the motor (graduated + / -)
- Electronic: follow the learning procedure (typically 3 forced cycles)

7. Finishing

Alu flashing cap on the exterior face of the box if exposed
Render or cladding brought up against the guide rails (never over them)
Access hatch on the interior side for tunnel installation — allow access for motor servicing (service life 10–15 years)

Tip

Self-builder tip: before fitting, unroll the full curtain on trestles and run a motor test off the wall. This lets you verify the winding direction, motor power and remote operation. Once fitted, dismantling to correct an error costs 2 hours per shutter.

Electrical wiring and regulations

The roller shutter circuit is dedicated in the electrical installation of a new-build home. Here are the rules to follow:

Dedicated circuit at the consumer unit

1 × 10 A MCB for 5 to 8 shutters maximum (each motor draws approx. 150 W)
Under a 30 mA type AC RCD (compatible with simple resistive motors)
Cable section: 3-core 1.5 mm² solid conductor
Labelling: clear “Roller Shutters” label at the consumer unit

Note: in the UK, comply with BS 7671 (18th Edition) for dedicated circuits; the requirements are broadly equivalent to those of NF C 15-100.

Star wiring from the consumer unit

No series connection between shutters: each headbox has its own supply from a central junction box, or ideally direct from the consumer unit. This simplifies servicing (one faulty shutter does not affect the others) and fault diagnosis.

Wired wall switches

The 2-button rocker switch receives the 3-core 1.5 mm² supply (from the consumer unit or junction box) and sends a 4-core 1.5 mm² to the motor (3 switched conductors + earth). The switch is purely mechanical: it commutates the live between the two motor inputs.

Wired centralisation

To close all shutters in one action with a wired setup, you need a centralisation module (e.g. Yokis MTV500ER, Somfy Centralis) that drives several motors in parallel from a single point. Plan this in the initial wiring layout.

Warning — The earth connection is mandatory on all motors, including radio ones. The metal casing of the barrel must be at earth potential via the green/yellow terminal. Careless installers sometimes omit it for lack of space — this is a serious fault that makes the installation non-compliant and dangerous in the event of an insulation fault.

Home automation and smart integration

Modern roller shutters integrate with most home automation ecosystems. Three families dominate the market:

io-homecontrol (Somfy)

Bidirectional proprietary standard used by Somfy, Velux and Bubendorff. Enables status feedback (knowing whether a shutter is open or closed), time programming and native integration with TaHoma (Somfy hub) or Apple HomeKit / Google Home / Alexa via gateway.

RTS (classic Somfy radio)

Somfy’s legacy protocol, unidirectional (no status feedback). Very widespread and economical, compatible with all Somfy remotes since 2002. Functionally limited but affordable.

Zigbee / KNX / Matter

For a fully connected home, some manufacturers (Profalux, Bubendorff, Soliso) offer Zigbee or KNX motors. Compatible with Home Assistant, Jeedom, Gladys and multi-brand systems. More expensive at purchase (EUR 200–300/motor) but fully open to custom scenes.

Common mistakes in self-build

Warning — These 8 mistakes account for 80% of failures and call-outs recorded on motorised roller shutters:

Tunnel headbox forgotten at shell stage → forced switch to monobloc or surface-mounted, degraded appearance
230 V cable omitted from the headbox → impossible to add without cutting into the rendered facade
Undersized motor (insufficient torque) → thermal burnout within a year
No mastic seal between box and facade → water ingress into the box, short circuits
Guide rails fixed into the render → pulled out by the first strong gust of wind
Winding direction reversed → curtain comes out of the guide rails
No 30 mA RCD protection → non-compliant installation
Radio remotes without a spare battery stored → house blacked out during a service call

Prices and budget 2026

For a new-build house with 8 openings fitted with electric roller shutters, here is an indicative supply + accessories budget (self-build installation). Prices are indicative France 2026, in EUR:

Type	Delivered shutter price	Surface-mount extra	Tunnel/monobloc extra
PVC wired shutter 100×100 cm	EUR 180–280	+ EUR 80	+ EUR 100 (kit)
Alu wired shutter 100×100 cm	EUR 230–380	+ EUR 80	+ EUR 100
Alu Somfy RTS radio 120×140 cm	EUR 380–580	+ EUR 100	+ EUR 130
Alu io-homecontrol 200×220 cm	EUR 750–1,100	+ EUR 150	+ EUR 200
TaHoma Switch hub	EUR 230	—	—
Smoove RTS remote	EUR 25–45	—	—
Dedicated 10 A MCB + 30 mA RCD	EUR 80	—	—

For 8 alu radio Somfy shutters in monobloc installation on a new build: expect EUR 5,000–7,000 supply self-fitted, versus EUR 9,000–12,000 through a joinery installer.

Standards and resources

NF EN 13659: performance and requirements for external shutters and blinds
NF EN 60335-2-97: electrical safety of motors for shutters and blinds
NF C 15-100: low-voltage electrical installations — French electrical code (dedicated circuit, RCD)
BS 7671 (UK): IET Wiring Regulations 18th Edition — equivalent UK standard
DTU 34.4 (France): installation of closures for openings fitted with roller shutters
Somfy — motors and io systems
Bubendorff — French-made roller shutters
Profalux — French motorised shutter manufacturer
Promotelec — NF C 15-100 guide (FR)
SNFPSA — French shutters and automation trade body