House brief: rooms, areas and circulation

Before drawing a single line on a floor plan, you need to know exactly what your house should contain. That is your brief: a detailed list of every room, its area, its purpose and how it relates to adjacent spaces. Without a clear brief, your architect — or you yourself — is designing blindly. The result: undersized rooms, absurd circulation routes and a budget that spirals out of control. Here is how to build a solid house brief.

HOUSE BRIEF: SPACE ALLOCATION BY AREA Living Bedrooms Living + Dining (35 m²) Kitchen (15 m²) Bedrooms (46 m²) Bath + WC (12 m²) Services (12 m²) Garage (18 m²) Circulation (12 m²) Total: ~155 m² floor area BUBBLE DIAGRAM: FUNCTIONAL RELATIONSHIPS LIVING 35 m² Kitchen 15 m² Pantry 4 m² Hallway 4 m² Terrace ext. Master bed. 14 m² En-suite 6 m² Bedrooms 22 m² Garage 18 m² SOUTH Example: 120 m² net internal area, 4 bedrooms, single storey

What is a house brief?

A house brief (also called a schedule of accommodation or functional brief) is the design specification for your home. It answers three questions:

  1. Which rooms? — number, function, any special requirements.
  2. What sizes? — minimum area for each space.
  3. What relationships? — which rooms need to be close together, and which should be kept apart.

It is the document you hand to your architect or designer, or use yourself when laying out your floor plans. Without it, you are designing in the dark.

Tip — Write your brief before browsing floor plans online. Otherwise you will end up adapting your needs to fit an existing layout instead of designing a layout that fits your needs.

Reference areas by room

The figures below are recommended areas for each space. They represent comfortable minimums — go below them and the room starts to feel cramped.

Living spaces

Room Minimum area Comfortable area Notes
Living room 20 m² 30–40 m² + 5 m² if adding a fireplace or wood-burner
Open-plan kitchen 12 m² 15–20 m² Work triangle: fridge–sink–hob
Closed kitchen 8 m² 12–15 m² Less common in new builds
Dining room 12 m² 16–20 m² Often integrated into the living space
Study / home office 8 m² 10–12 m² Acoustic insulation recommended

Bedrooms

Room Minimum area Comfortable area Notes
Master bedroom 12 m² 14–18 m² + walk-in wardrobe (4–6 m²) + en-suite
Children’s bedroom 9 m² 11–14 m² Legal minimum: 9 m², ceiling height 2.20 m
Guest bedroom 9 m² 10–12 m² Can double as a study

Bathrooms and WCs

Room Minimum area Comfortable area Notes
Master en-suite 5 m² 7–9 m² Walk-in shower + double basin
Family bathroom 4 m² 6–8 m² Bath requires at least 5 m²
Separate WC 1.2 m² 1.5–2 m² Mandatory on ground floor if house has two storeys
WC with hand basin 1.5 m² 2–2.5 m² Preferable for guest access

Service spaces

Room Minimum area Comfortable area Notes
Entrance hall 3 m² 5–8 m² Coat and shoe storage
Utility room 3 m² 5–6 m² Washing machine, dryer, ironing
Pantry / larder 2 m² 4–6 m² Adjacent to the kitchen
Single garage 15 m² 18–20 m² Minimum 3 m × 6 m
Double garage 30 m² 35–40 m² Minimum 6 m × 6 m
Hallway / corridor Minimum width 90 cm, ideal 110 cm

Question

Watch outNet internal area (NIA) does not include spaces with a ceiling height below 1.80 m, garages, cellars or unconverted loft space. When comparing quotes from builders or reading property listings, make sure everyone is talking about the same measurement.

The method for defining your brief

Step 1: List the rooms

Start from your daily life. For each activity, identify a space:

  • Morning: waking (bedroom), washing (bathroom), breakfast (kitchen/living).
  • Daytime: working from home (study), children playing (bedroom/living), unpacking shopping (pantry).
  • Evening: cooking, eating (dining/kitchen), relaxing (living room), bedtime.
  • Weekend: DIY (garage), garden (terrace access), having guests (guest bedroom).

Step 2: Assign areas

For each room on your list, assign an area using the tables above as a reference. Add everything up to get your target net internal area.

Step 3: Check budget compatibility

Your net internal area multiplied by the cost per m² must fit within your construction budget. If it overruns, go back to Step 1 and prioritise.

Tip — Sort every room into three columns: Essential, Desirable, Optional. If the budget is tight, optional spaces go first. This is the approach described in our article defining your self-build project.

Circulation: the skeleton of the floor plan

Circulation covers everything that lets you move from one room to another: corridors, hallways, staircases. It typically accounts for 10 to 15% of the net internal area. Less = an optimised plan. More = wasted usable space.

CIRCULATION: GOOD vs POOR FLOOR PLAN Optimised plan Living + Kitchen 50 m² Bedrooms Bath Master bed. Short hallway Hall Garage ↑ SOUTH Circulation: 8% of floor area Hallway: only 3 m Poor plan LONG CORRIDOR (12 m!) Bed. 1 Bed. 2 Bed. 3 Living Kitchen Garage ↑ SOUTH Circulation: 18% of floor area Corridor: 12 m wasted

Principles of good circulation

  1. Separate day and night zones — Day spaces (living room, kitchen, study) and night spaces (bedrooms, bathrooms) should be independently accessible. In a two-storey house this happens naturally. In a single-storey home, distribution is critical.

  2. Minimise corridors — A corridor does one thing: let people walk through it. Every metre of corridor is a square metre that serves no other purpose. Favour rooms that open directly onto one another, or use open-plan living spaces to create natural flow.

  3. Direct kitchen → entrance access — Essential for unpacking the weekly shop. It sounds obvious, but a utility room between the garage and the kitchen is genuinely life-changing.

  4. WC accessible without crossing a living space — For guests. A WC tucked at the back of a bedroom is a design error.

  5. Central staircase — In a two-storey house, the staircase should sit at the heart of the plan, not in a corner. It should serve all rooms without creating long corridors.

Best practice — Draw a bubble diagram before moving to a floor plan. Each room is a bubble, each functional connection is a line. If two bubbles need to be close (kitchen and pantry), pull them together. If they need to be apart (bedrooms away from a noisy kitchen), push them apart.

The schedule of accommodation: a practical tool

Conseil

Here is an example schedule of accommodation for a 120 m² net internal area, 4-bedroom, single-storey house:

Room Area Orientation Adjacent to Priority
Living + Dining 35 m² South Kitchen, terrace Essential
Open kitchen 15 m² South-east Living, pantry Essential
Pantry 4 m² North Kitchen, garage Essential
Master bedroom 14 m² East En-suite, wardrobe Essential
Walk-in wardrobe 5 m² Master bedroom Desirable
En-suite 6 m² Master bedroom Desirable
Bedroom 1 11 m² East Family bathroom Essential
Bedroom 2 11 m² East Family bathroom Essential
Guest bedroom / study 10 m² North-east Desirable
Family bathroom 5 m² Bedrooms Essential
Ground floor WC 1.5 m² Entrance Essential
Entrance hall 4 m² North Living, hallway Essential
Utility room 4 m² North Garage Desirable
Garage 18 m² North-west Entrance, pantry Essential
Circulation ~12 m²
Total ~155 m²      

Note: 120 m² net internal area + 18 m² garage + circulation = ~155 m² total floor area.

Common brief mistakes

  1. Forgetting storage — Allow at least one built-in wardrobe per bedroom (60 cm deep), a pantry and a hallway with dedicated storage. Without it, the house will feel cluttered within weeks of moving in.

  2. Undersizing the kitchen — Below 10 m², an open-plan kitchen feels cramped. Allow room for the work triangle (fridge – sink – hob) with a minimum 120 cm of clear passage.

  3. Forgetting the utility room — A washing machine crammed into the bathroom is a flat-dwelling compromise, not a new-build solution. Plan a proper utility room of 4–6 m².

  4. Neglecting the entrance hall — A 2 m² lobby is an airlock, not an entrance. Design a proper welcome space with storage, a bench and a mirror. 5 m² minimum.

  5. Too many corridors — If your circulation exceeds 15% of net internal area, the plan is poorly optimised. Revisit the layout.

Watch out — Do not copy a floor plan from the internet without adapting it to your brief. Every plan is designed for a specific brief, a specific plot and a specific solar orientation. What works for someone else will not necessarily work for you.

From brief to floor plan: the transition

Once your brief is finalised, you have everything you need to move to design:

  1. Budget confirmed → construction budget signed off.
  2. Brief complete → every room, its area and its adjacencies.
  3. Plot analysed → footprint, orientation, access.
  4. Style decided → single storey or two storey, contemporary or traditional.

With these four elements in place, your architect or designer can start working effectively. If any one of them is missing, the design will inevitably need to be reworked.

Key takeaways

The brief is the most underestimated step in any self-build project. Yet it is what determines whether your home will be a pleasure to live in or a daily source of frustration. Take the time to write it carefully, challenge it as a household, and test it against your budget. Everything else flows from it.

Checklist: house brief

  • All required rooms listed
  • Area assigned to each room (using the reference tables)
  • Total net internal area calculated and compatible with budget
  • Priorities defined (essential / desirable / optional)
  • Preferred orientation noted for each room
  • Functional relationships identified (bubble diagram)
  • Circulation estimated (10–15% of net internal area)
  • Storage planned (pantry, wardrobes, entrance, utility room)
  • Brief signed off by all household members
  • Document handed to architect / designer