Intermediate

Fitting Hinged Shutters: Timber or Aluminium Complete Guide

22/04/2026 13 min read

The hinged shutter remains the reference occultation for traditional houses, stone renovations, and all projects where aesthetics take priority over automation. Less expensive than a roller shutter, simple to maintain, it can be fitted in a day per window when the hardware is correctly sized. This guide gives you the complete method for fitting hinged shutters — solid timber or aluminium — anchoring the pintles in any masonry, adjusting the strap hinges, and avoiding the sag that ruins 80% of self-builder installations.

Why choose hinged shutters

Before you start, confirm this is the right solution for your project. The hinged shutter has unique qualities — and real limitations.

What hinged shutters do better than roller shutters

Supply cost 2 to 3 times lower: €80 to €250 per pair in standard PVC or aluminium, versus €400 to €800 for an equivalent motorised roller shutter
No electricity: no 230 V cable to run, no motor to replace every 15 years, no dependence on the grid
Facade aesthetics: mandatory in some listed areas, in conservation zones overseen by a Conservation officer (French heritage zoning — ABF) or in developments with strict appearance guidelines
Mechanical security: a hinged shutter closed with an espagnolette, hooks on the leaf, and an anti-lever bar is more deterrent than an entry-level roller shutter
Lifespan: 30 years in aluminium, 15–20 years in well-maintained timber — versus 15–20 years for a roller shutter motor

What hinged shutters do less well

Manual operation: you go outside (or lean out of the window) to open and close — not ideal for a 3-metre-high bay window
Folded clearance: open shutters take up 40 cm either side of the window on the facade
Limited thermal insulation: no insulated housing, little effect on heat loss through the bay
Timber maintenance: stain or paint every 5–7 years depending on exposure

Tip — For a self-builder, the simple rule: hinged shutters on the visible facade (street, entrance), roller shutters at the rear (garden, bedrooms). You get the aesthetics on the outside and everyday comfort inside, at a controlled mid-range budget.

Materials: timber, aluminium, PVC — which to choose

Three materials dominate the hinged shutter market. Your choice depends on budget, exposure, and the style of your house.

Solid timber hinged shutter

The historic standard. Scots pine (treated softwood) for the entry level, Nordic red spruce or oak for the high end.

Price: €150 to €400 per pair depending on dimensions and species
Thickness: 27 to 35 mm, vertical boards assembled with tongues and grooves
Advantages: repairable board by board, customisable (colour, louvres, cut-outs), warm appearance
Disadvantages: regular maintenance required, heavy (12 to 20 kg per leaf — robust strap hinges essential)
Lifespan: 15 to 25 years depending on exposure and maintenance

Aluminium hinged shutter

The most durable modern choice. Extruded horizontal slats or solid panel.

Price: €200 to €500 per pair
Thickness: 20 to 25 mm, aluminium slats injected onto a perimeter frame
Advantages: zero maintenance, unalterable, lightweight (4 to 8 kg per leaf), powder-coated in all RAL colours
Disadvantages: more “industrial” look, scratches on impact, not repairable after collision
Lifespan: 30 years and more

PVC hinged shutter

Entry-level rigid option. Solid panel or bar-and-Z-brace moulded in PVC.

Price: €80 to €180 per pair
Advantages: the cheapest, no maintenance, lightweight
Disadvantages: warps in sunlight on south-facing facades, cheap appearance, prohibited in ABF conservation zones
Best avoided for a quality self-build — except on a garage or outbuilding

Summary comparison

Criterion	Timber	Aluminium	PVC
Price per pair 100×140 cm	€150–300	€230–400	€90–150
Weight per leaf	12–20 kg	4–8 kg	5–9 kg
Maintenance	Stain every 5–7 years	None	None
South sun resistance	Good (if stained)	Excellent	Average
Repairable	Yes (board by board)	No	No
Compatible with ABF zone	Yes	Yes (depending on colour)	No
Lifespan	15–25 years	30+ years	20–25 years

Hardware: the real technical subject

A hinged shutter is 20% panel and 80% hardware. A good panel with undersized strap hinges will sag within two years. Here are the parts that really matter.

The pintles

Piece anchored in the wall that receives the strap hinge eye. Three models depending on the substrate:

Mortar-bedded pintle (L-shaped steel): for dense concrete block, stone, solid brick — cement-sand mortar 3:1, 48-hour curing time
Chemical anchor pintle on threaded rod: for hollow concrete block, perforated brick, aerated concrete — polyester or epoxy resin with mesh sleeve (sieve), load-bearing after 1 hour at 20°C
Screw-fixed plate pintle: for timber frame or EWI (External Wall Insulation) — avoid unless unavoidable as less solid than direct anchoring

Common diameter: 14 mm (shutters up to 12 kg), 16 mm (heavy oak timber shutters).

The strap hinges

Flat metal plate screwed to the leaf, with an eye that rotates around the pintle. Three shapes:

Flat strap hinge: the most common, rectangular profile, matt black, galvanised or wrought ironwork finish
Fishtail hinge: forked end, rustic style for period houses
Continuous strap hinge: long decorative plate spanning the full width of the leaf

Minimum length: 2/3 of the leaf width for proper load distribution.

The espagnolette

Central closure with a vertical rod that hooks at the top and bottom of the window frame. It locks both leaves closed against the wind. Two types:

Classic espagnolette with a rotating knob on the right leaf — with top and bottom hooks that insert into keeper plates anchored in the frame
Pump espagnolette (older style): triggered by pulling a pull rod — less common on new builds

Shutter holdbacks (shutter dogs)

Piece fixed to the facade that holds the leaf open at 180° against the wall, so it does not slam in the wind. Two variants:

Spring shutter dog: plate with a pivoting hook, anchored to the wall at leaf height
Marseille-style holdback (round head): round shape, anchored, internal hook — more attractive

One holdback at the lower position and ideally one at the upper third of the leaf. For a shutter over 1.40 m in height, both holdbacks are essential.

Warning — Never buy hardware as a budget kit from DIY superstores. Thin pressed-steel strap hinges bend in the first gust of wind, and pintles with short rods (80 mm) do not hold in masonry block. Buy hardware separately from a specialist ironmonger (Torbel, Monin, Mantion) — budget €60 to €120 per window for long-lasting hardware, versus €25 for a superstore kit.

Sizing: which measurements to take

The hinged shutter is dimensioned based on the reveal (the raw opening in the masonry), not the window joinery. This lets the shutter completely cover the window when closed.

Taking measurements

Reveal width: measure at top, middle, and bottom — take the smallest dimension
Reveal height: from the window sill to the lintel, on the external face
Width of each leaf: (reveal width + 20 mm overlap) / 2
Side clearance: allow 5 mm clearance between each leaf and the window frame
Pivot axis: distance between the external face of the wall and the pintle rotation axis — typically 60 to 80 mm

Common assembly types

For a 120 × 140 cm window (standard reveal):

Two equal leaves of 60 × 140 cm: classic, symmetrical fold
Two unequal leaves (e.g. 40 + 80 cm): for an asymmetric window such as a French door
Single pivoting leaf: for narrow openings under 70 cm

Standard dimension table (French manufacturers)

Reveal width	Reveal height	Common config	Timber pair weight	Alu pair weight
60 cm	100 cm	1 leaf 60×100	7 kg	3 kg
80 cm	120 cm	2 × 40×120	14 kg	6 kg
100 cm	140 cm	2 × 50×140	20 kg	9 kg
120 cm	140 cm	2 × 60×140	24 kg	10 kg
140 cm	160 cm	2 × 70×160	32 kg	13 kg
160 cm	220 cm	2 × 80×220 (French door)	48 kg	19 kg

Beyond 80 cm leaf width, standard strap hinges are no longer sufficient: move to reinforced strap hinges with Ø 16 mm eye and chemically anchored pintles.

Step-by-step installation

Here is the complete method for fitting a pair of timber hinged shutters on an existing window in masonry block or stone. It applies equally to aluminium or PVC — only the hardware differs.

Step 1 — Prepare the leaves

Unpack, check for square (diagonals equal to within 2 mm)
Stain or paint all faces before fitting, including the edges — this is the only chance to access the end grain
Allow 24 hours to dry between coats (minimum 2 coats for timber)
Pre-position the strap hinges at their final location — allow 15 cm from the top and 15 cm from the bottom of the leaf

Step 2 — Mark the pintle positions

Lay the leaf flat, measure the exact position of the strap hinge eyes (distance between centres of top and bottom eye)
Transfer this dimension onto the facade, on the reveal, respecting:
- Vertical axis aligned with a spirit level over 1.50 m
- Set-back of 5 to 10 mm from the external face (so the closed leaf presses against the wall)
- Height of both pintles on the same leaf aligned with a chalk line
Mark with a thick pen or masonry crayon

Step 3 — Drill and anchor the pintles

The method varies by substrate:

Dense concrete block or stone (mortar bedding):

Drill a Ø 25–30 mm hole to 8–10 cm depth (rotary hammer + masonry bit, light chisel to enlarge)
Dampen the hole with a sponge
Prepare a dry cement/sand 1:3 mortar with little water (toothpaste consistency)
Pack the mortar around the pintle, tamping with a rod
Check the pintle is plumb and level, and leave overnight

Hollow concrete block or brick (chemical anchor):

Drill Ø 14 mm to 100 mm depth
Blow out the dust, insert a mesh sleeve (plastic net tube / resin sieve)
Inject the two-component resin (Fischer FIS V or Spit Maxima) to 2/3 of the sleeve
Insert the pintle threaded rod, turning to expel air bubbles
Load-bearing after 1 hour at 20°C (6 hours at 5°C)

Step 4 — Position the first leaf

Two people required: one on the ground, one presenting the leaf
Slide the top strap hinge eye onto the top pintle, then the bottom eye onto the bottom pintle
If the strap hinges won’t slide on: the pintle is misaligned or the two pintles are not on the same vertical — dismantle and redo before the mortar sets
Check:
- The leaf opens freely to 90° and 180°
- It stays plumb when open (does not swing back on its own)
- The bottom rail does not rub on the window sill

Step 5 — Fit the second leaf

Repeat step 4, then check the closure:

Both leaves must meet without force in the centre
A 10 to 20 mm central overlap is normal to block light and wind
The gap with the window frame must be consistent over the full height

Warning — If the leaf pivots back towards closed when released, the two pintles are not on the same vertical axis: one is closer to the outside than the other. This is the most common self-builder error. You must dismantle within the setting window (under 3 hours) or break out with a chisel and start again. Check with a plumb line before final anchoring.

Step 6 — Fit the espagnolette

Position the vertical rod with thumbscrew at the centre of the right leaf, at handle height (approx. 100–110 cm from the floor)
Screw the top and bottom rod supports to the leaf
Anchor the keeper plates (the piece that receives the hook) in the top frame and the bottom sill — same anchoring method as the pintles
Adjust the rod travel so the hooks pull the leaves against the frame without forcing

Step 7 — Fit the shutter holdbacks

Open the leaves to 180° against the wall
Mark the exact point where the leaf would touch the wall
Position the holdback 5 cm below this mark — the folded shutter rests at a slight angle
Anchor as for the pintles (chemical for hollow block, mortar for dense)
Check that when deliberately slamming the leaf, it self-catches on the spring hook

Step 8 — Finishing and checks

Grease the pintles with lithium grease (not oil which runs down the facade)
Check all strap hinge fastenings (stainless steel 5 × 40 mm screws in timber, countersunk screws in aluminium)
Apply a bead of acrylic sealant around the anchored keeper plates on the facade
Test 20 open/close cycles

Tip

Self-builder tip: never anchor the pintles on the day of installation. Always allow 48 hours minimum between anchoring the pintles and hanging the leaf. Self-builders in a rush who slide the shutter onto fresh mortar cause the pintle to sink 1 mm — and in 6 months the shutter drags on the ground by 2 cm.

The trap of badly placed holdbacks

The most visible finishing error is the position of the shutter holdbacks. Here is the decision tree for placing them correctly.

flowchart TD A{Leaf taller
than 1m40?} -->|Yes| B{Facade exposed
to prevailing wind?} A -->|No| C[1 bottom holdback
anchored at mid-height] B -->|Yes| D[2 holdbacks + horizontal
anti-slam bar] B -->|No| E[2 holdbacks
top and bottom] style A fill:#0F4C81,stroke:#0F4C81,color:#fff style B fill:#0F4C81,stroke:#0F4C81,color:#fff style C fill:#56C6A9,stroke:#56C6A9,color:#fff style D fill:#CD212A,stroke:#CD212A,color:#fff style E fill:#F58220,stroke:#F58220,color:#fff

Adjustments after installation — the first season

Timber moves. Aluminium expands with heat. Anchors settle. Plan a check at 3 months and at 1 year:

Common adjustments

Leaf drooping and scraping the floor: raise the bottom pintle via an adjustment nut, or insert a spacer washer between the strap hinge and eye
Leaf swinging open on its own: the top pintle is set too far back compared to the bottom — shim the rear edge of the top strap hinge with a washer
Espagnolette stiff to operate: adjust the keeper plates by a few millimetres or lightly file the hooks
Boards gapping (timber): normal in the first season — moisture rehydrates the wood, the grooves close back up

Lifecycle maintenance

Operation	Timber	Aluminium	PVC
Grease pintles	Annual	Annual	Annual
Check strap hinge screws	Every 2 years	Every 5 years	Every 3 years
Stain/paint	Every 5–7 years	Never	Never
Hardware replacement	15–20 years	20–30 years	15–20 years

Best practice — For a timber shutter, choose a microporous water-repellent stain (such as Xyladecor Exterior Wood or V33 Woodex) rather than a film-forming paint. The stain lets the wood breathe and does not peel — only a surface patina needs refreshing with 2 roller coats every 5–6 years.

Prices and 2026 budget

For a new-build house with 8 windows, here is an indicative supply + self-installation budget:

Type	Pair supplied	Hardware	Installation time
Moulded PVC shutter 100×140	€110–170	€45 (kit)	2 h
Standard alu shutter 100×140	€230–350	€60	2 h
Louvred alu shutter 120×160	€380–550	€75	3 h
Painted pine timber shutter 100×140	€180–280	€70	2.5 h
Solid oak timber shutter 120×160	€450–700	€110	3.5 h
Anchoring materials (per window)	—	€12 (mortar) or €22 (chemical)	—

For 8 windows in standard aluminium shutters self-installed: budget €2,800 to €3,500 supply + hardware, versus €5,500 to €7,000 fitted by a joiner. Saving: approx. 50%.

Standards and resources

NF EN 13659: performance of external shutters and blinds (wind resistance)
DTU 36.1 (French installation standard): external joinery, installation rules and assemblies
DTU 36.5: installation of windows and external doors
NF P20-202: mechanical strength of facade hardware
Torbel — French manufacturer of hinged shutter hardware
Mantion — ironwork and shutter hardware specialist
Monin — hinged shutter hardware and ironwork
SNFMI — French National Union of Industrial Joinery Manufacturers
Qualibat 3731 — external joinery installation certification